Walking in the Dordogne: Book Review

I have immensly enjoyed my fireside reading recently. This book caught my attention some time ago as an insight into walking routes of the picturesque Dordogne Valley, where the Young King died in the spring of 1183. But first and foremost, I assumed I'd find it quite useful while planning my Henry the Young King expedition. Unfortunately, this year my plans will come to naught due to serious health issues I have been dealing with for some time now. That is why, instead of hitting the long road, I will hit the short one and visit Henry the Young King tomb in Rouen Cathedral. This visit is going to be a shorter version of the extended walk I am going to take in 2026. Hopefully, by then my health will be in perfect order and my plans will come to fruition. Besides, it is the truth universally acknowledged that every cloud has a silver lining. My cloud definitely has one... I will be able to plan my expedition in every single detail and thus will be better prepared than if I undertook it this year. In this, the book I am about to discuss is going to be a great asset. 

Photo courtesy of https://www.amismuseeraymondie.org

Over the past few years walking has become increasingly popular activity and thus a considerable effort has been made to create more walking trails. Also in the south of France, in the former realm of Henry the Young King's mother, Eleanor of Aquitaine, the region tourists have always found very attractive. 

The author of 'Walking in the Dordogne', Janette Norton, English-born, but living near Geneva for over 40 years, loved walking and exploring the mountains. In her first book she focused on Haute Savoie, but in the next ones she explored other areas of France, such as Provence and the Dordogne. Unfortunately Janette died in 2014, from cancer. Her books are now revised by her husband Alan Norton and Pamela Harris who accompanied Janette on her walks for several years and assisted with previous editions of her guides. While preparing the revised edtion both Alan and Pamela have re-done all the walks to make sure that all the necessary updates and changes will be introduced. Thus apart from the general introduction the guide includes 35 walking routes described in meticulous detail, restructured into four sections, each with its own introduction. Each walk is accompanied by a map which overlays a recorded GPS track and key features on a colourful Cicerone base map. Additionaly, lovely photos will serve as an extra lure of this picturesque part of France, loved by so many tourists from far and wide. 

Those, who like me show keen interest in the history of the former duchy would love to visit all the places and sites connected with the first Plantagenets. Rocamadour or Cahors need no introduction, but Martel, where Henry the Young King died is somehow less known, hence my genuine surprise upon discovering that the author of the book knew about the connection and included the following note:

Prince Henry, the second son of Henry II Of England and Eleanor of Aquitaine, was suddenly taken ill and died here in 1183, shortly after plundering the famous shrine of Rocamadour and taking away sackfuls of treasure. Many people thought that his sudden death was heavenly punshment for such a sacrilegious act. (p. 231)

Although she did not mention that the Young King spent his last days in Maison Fabri, the house itself is depicted in one of the photos. I wonder if the plaque on the front wall, just above the entrance still has it wrong? And incorrectly informs the visitors that in this house passed away Henry " the Curtmantle" (the sobriquet earned by Henry's father, Henry II of England). If yes, I intend to petition the local mayor to introduce the necessary changes (this will be done during my expedition). Anyway, I was genuinely pleased to see the Young King get a mention, especially that the author named him - correctly - as the second son of the royal couple. William, his elder brother, Henry and Eleanor's first-born and their only child to die in infancy, is too often forgotten in the history books. 

Written by Katarzyna Ogrodnik-Fujcik